Africa Travel Archives

Archived Letters from Kenya

A series of entertaining letters that Matthew Albert from SORA sent during his time in Kenya...

Hollywood is based in Los Angeles, USA. Bollywood jives out of Bombai, India. I have heard our industry referred to as Ozziewood, while the burgeoning industry in Nigeria is now being called Nollywood. But nowhere have I heard of the film industry in Kenya, fledgling though it is, being called Kollywood. Until now. Kollywood is, in truth, more of a branch of Hollywood than any of Bollywood, Nollywood or Ozziewood. That aside, Kollywood seems to be on the rise.

At present, part of the Kenyan countryside is being over-run by the crew making an adaptation of the novel by John LeCarre (author, The Spy Who Came in From the Cold), called The Constant Gardener. It is being directed by the Oscar-winning director of City of God, Fernando Meirelles and will feature Ralph Feinnes (of The English Patient fame) and Rachael Weiz (of The Runaway Jury). This film joins Tomb Raider 2 as one of few purely fictional works shot in Kenya. Hang on, should we include Survivor 3?

Rumours are rife that Kollywood is also about to host the film production of yet another paper-to-silver-screen production. The "word on the street" suggests that Deborah Scroggins' recent and best-selling book, Emma's War is coming, via Kenya, to a cinema near you. Scroggins' book explores the history and issues behind Africa's longest running civil war - that in South Sudan - through the story of Emma, British-born wife of rebel leader, Reik Machar.

When completed, this film will fall into an ever-growing list of films about real-life white women coming to Kenya and trying to blend into the background. Think of Meryl Streep in Karen Blixen's Out of Africa. Think of the German film, Nowhere in Africa. Think of Born Free and Joy Adamson (whose house, incidentally, lies just across Lake Naivasha from where Emma's husband was attending the most recent Sudanese Peace Talks). The pattern is strong. The reason for this pattern is worthy of a PhD thesis - or ten.

Oddly, the best known and most loved film featuring Kenya did not shoot a single frame in Kenya itself. The Lion King was an animation - I hope that doesn't shatter your illusions about it. It was probably set in southern Kenya (or possibly Northern Tanzania) as the language, landscape and animals are all as they are here.

On the theme of The Lion King, it is worthy of note for those who enjoy cheap thrills, that anyone in the tourist trade in Kenya will gladly say "Hakuna matata" to you countless times before (and probably during and after) a tour with their company. It is also worth noting that if the same operator calls you rafiki you should worry not. Rafiki actually means "friend" not "old monkey" as the film suggests.

So rafiki, with that and my eyes peeled for star-spotting, I bid you kwaheri from Kenya until next time!

Copyright 2004

Letter from Kenyan Coast!
Matthew Albert from SORA writes his second letter from Kenya...

Think of Africa and most Australians would probably think of the famine-bellies of a World Vision advertisement or news footage of the latest conflict. But Africa has more to offer than this. So much more! Indeed, this picture couldn't be further away from the likes of the small Kenyan town of Watamu.

Watamu is north of Kenya's second city, Mombassa, on the Indian Ocean coastline. This cosy little town, marked by a series of perfect white beach bays, can legitimately boast of having more coconut palms than people. The laid-back atmosphere, cool breeze and copious eateries make it an easy place to stay - and almost impossible to leave!

When I arrived I was a little hesitant about how I would find accommodation - I needn't have been. One of countless touts will grab you the minute you extract yourself from the cramped matatu - the local, private mini-bus transport that carries you there from Malindi or Mombassa. This is the first and last time you see a local in a hurry.

The same tout is likely to show you the way to the prize of Watumu. The jewel in the Watamu crown lies in the sapphire waters of the Marine Park. A short private boat trip takes you to a coral reef to rival our own Great Barrier. With snorkel in mouth, one can swim among a rich array of electric-coloured fish who saunter [like their legged neighbours] around immense blocks of coral. Unlike our own famous reef, the Watamu offering is un-peopled. One can swim for hours without seeing another visitor. Just you and the fish. It is like finding Nemo in The Lion King!

The tout who grabbed me took me to a little hotel on a road called New Bla-bla-bla Road. It was hard not to be intrigued by this name but I figured bla-bla-bla must have a more profound meaning in either Kiswahili or Arabic.

"What does bla-bla-bla mean?", I asked as politely as I could. "Bla-bla-bla? Man! You speak English right? It means like, bla-bla whatever. You know?" Bla-bla by name, bla-bla by nature. This pretty much sums the place up.

For now, kwaheri from Kenya!

Matthew Albert is founding director of SORA, the Sudanese Online Research Association - which looks at issues & stories of the Sudanese diaspora.

Copyright 2004

Letter from Kenya

Matthew Albert from SORA writes to us from from Kenya...

When I went to my suburban chemist in Melbourne and mentioned I was preparing to travel to Kenya, the response was one of vicarious panic. "Kenya? Why Kenya? Oooaaah, that is a long way away. Why would anyone go there?", said the pharmacist. Accustomed to this response after months of planning, I replied cooly, "I'm going to work voluntarily in Nairobi and the refugee camps in Northern Kenya. I was wondering if you had some sun-cream that I could take?"

The kindly chemist spun around the counter and disappeared in the aisled abyss of the store. She returned minutes later with my sun-cream.. and a counter full of other 'must-take' medications.

This is the kind of bewildered hysteria that greets most Australians preparing to travel to Africa. But it is also one of many idiosyncrasies that demonstrate how Asia-savvy, Africa-ignorant Aussies can sometimes make African destinations seem too challenging from down-under.

Take the good people at the bloodbank. They effectively discourage travel to Africa by imposing the rule that by merely setting foot on the continent one cannot donate blood for two years! Good people, there is so much more to Africa than communicable diseases. 100% of people living on the continent are alive. Until this changes, why not add a simple blood test for us adventurers to be do-gooders on our return?

And then there are our friends at the local (money) bank. The customer service officer I asked about my upcoming travels was bemused by the very idea that there would be ATMs in Africa. When her superior gently provided her with the information that not only are there hundreds of ATMs in Kenya, but 200 free for this bank's customers, the CSO laughed awkwardly: "Well, you learn something new every day."

On this point, I agree!! So today's lesson is this - Africa is home to more than 620 million people, 10% of the world's population. It is undeniably home, too, to many of the greatest travesties on the planet. But it IS home to so much more: great intellects, great art, great innovation, great opportunities and really great food! To borrow the words of South African President, Thabo Mbeki: "The blight on [Africa's] happiness... derives from... our drift to the periphery of the ordering of human affairs. This [is a] savage road to which nobody should be condemned. [But despite this] Africa reaffirms that she is continuing her rise from the ashes. However improbable it may sound to the sceptics, Africa will prosper!"

To my friends at the bank, the pharmacy and the blood bank, I am glad to report that thus far I have plenty of cash, good health and clean blood - and I am most definitely in Africa!

With my soapbox returned, I bid you 'kwaheri' (adieu) from Kenya until next time!

Matthew Albert is founding director of SORA, the Sudanese Online Research Association - which looks at issues & stories of the Sudanese diaspora.

Copyright 2004

Flight Tips for reaching Africa

Grabbing the Right Flight

Before chatting to your travel agent about flight options to Africa, it helps to be aware of different routings available. There are some great Africa-return airfares from Australia - some of which go via one or two African cities plus an Asian city such as Bangkok. If you want to include a few side trips on your way, always ask if there are stop-overs. For example, to get to Nairobi, you may want to go via Bangkok and Dubai. Alternatively, you might want to go via Mauritius or South Africa - so there are usually a range of routings available to each destination at affordable prices. Try to think about your options in a creative way. For example, your travel agent may not realise that a cheap way to get to Ethiopia and other East or Horn of African destinations may be to connect a Sydney-Dubai return ticket with a Dubai-(choice of African city) return ticket.

Previous Travel Excerpts & Features:
- South Africa travel books
- Morocco
- Mauritius, Seychelles, Reunion
- Capetown
- Flight Tips to Africa

The Magic of Morocco
Something about the reds & browns of Autumn that evoke the rich colours and layers of Africa's north. Here, Paula Hardy, in an extract from Lonely Planet's new guide to Morocco, gives us an introduction to this fascinating African country that has seen centuries of trade between Europe, Africa & the Middle East.

Red baked-mud kasbahs beneath the towering High Atlas. Seething souqs in dusty towns. Breezy beach haunts under massive skies. Nowhere is as fascinating and bewildering as Morocco - a country full of contrasting images, colourful sights, strange smells and exotic experiences.

Mountains carve up the country from the Mediterranean Rif to the limestone plateau of the Middle Atlas and the 1000km-long High Atlas, whose southern slopes descend to the dramatic valleys of Dadès, Drâa and Ziz. There are climates as chilled as those of any Tibetan kingdom, icy-snowed capped peaks that snare the moisture, leaving the Western Sahara gasping in the torrid heat. On the Atlantic seaboard, cut off from the verdant Souss, the heat of the Sahara clashes with the cold waters of the Atlantic, creating heavy fogbanks that envelope the shore.

Such geographical diversity has inevitably engendered a multitude of rich, cultures as varied as the vistas, from pale-skinned Berber tribes to urban Islamists and southern nomadic tribes. Great civilisations such as the Almohads took their refined Islamic aesthetic north into Andalusia, while lucrative caravans built the great cities of Fès, Meknès and Marrakesh, shipping their produce north through Portuguese entrepôts at Tangiers, Casablanca and Essaouira.

The result is a destination of infinite possibility, where you can swelter in the heat of the marketplace or ramble through Roman ruins and in the space of a day find yourself trekking through a cool Atlas village or surfing rolling breakers at Essaouira or Safi.

Morocco is not a country where you can gracefully glide through with the minimum of fuss. It confronts and confounds you at every turn with an intense density of life and unexpected generosities. But it is a unique experience. Take a deep breath and dive in.

Reproduced with permission from Morocco, 7th edition, Paula Hardy et al. © Lonely Planet Publications. Lonely Planet's new edition guide to Morocco, published February 2005, is in bookstores now for $39.90 or available online at www.lonelyplanet.com

Flavours of Morocco: africanOz wrap

Food... No trip plan to Morocco is complete without sampling the country's delicious cuisine. If you haven't already - try some of the great recipes featured on africanOz Food page, including Zulu Zalook from Moroccan Australian chef Hassan M'Souli from his 'Moroccan Modern' cookbook; as well as some easy & delicious recipes contributed by gourmet traveller Craig Newcombe & others: Moroccan Mint Tea & Harcha; Moroccan Rice Pudding & Moroccan vegetarian & meat links

Music... Vast external cultural influences combine with Berber & other local traditions to make Moroccan music an exciting and ecclectic blend. To find out more about Moroccan Music, see Rough Guide to Moroccan Music on World Music Central and Moroccan Music on UPenn Africa Studies site.

Africa's Sky Blue Lagoons

With some great airfares available to Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles - islands off Africa's East Coast - many travellers are now choosing to visit these multicultural havens. Here Jan Dodd, author of Lonely Planet's new guide to Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles (Nov 2004), summarises the attractions.

Just the names of these Indian Ocean islands evoke images of white sands, swaying palms, azure lagoons, romantic hideaways and exotic wildlife. But surprisingly, many people in the English-speaking world are unaware of the fabulous tropical delights on offer.

Not so the French, who used to rule all these islands and still own Réunion. Though the British took over temporarily, they never really warmed to the Indian Ocean, leaving the locals to pursue their own, French-influenced way of life and the islands to develop their own personalities.

For the ultimate tropical paradise, you can’t beat the Seychelles, which boasts some of the most stunning islands on the planet. Paradise comes at a price, however, and only the extremely well heeled will be able to see the best the country has to offer.

Mauritius is more affordable and offers unusual cultural attractions in addition to its own gorgeous beaches. Aquatic activities abound, even walking under the sea!

Réunion is the surprise. Instead of beaches, its prime attractions are a smouldering volcano, world-class hiking in the mountainous interior, and endless other adventure activities.

Apart from their natural wonders, the islands offer a vibrant cultural mix. In Mauritius, Indian culture dominates; Réunion looks towards mainland France; and the Seychelles presents a Franco-African face to the world. The result is a flamboyant potpourri of people, cuisines, traditions and beliefs that should excite even the most experienced traveller.

(c) Lonely Planet Publications. Reproduced with permission from Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles, by Jan Dodd. Published November 2004. A$36.90

Under the Spell of Capetown
Recently voted the 'best city in the world' in a British newspaper travel survey, Capetown continues to attract tourists of every budget with its beautiful surrounds and streetscapes. Lonely Planet just released a new edition of their Capetown guide - and here, author of the guide, Simon Richmond, spells out what he likes most about the city.

What makes Cape Town Unique?
Simon: The combination of cultures and the unique history of Cape Town is what defines the city - along, of course, with that beautiful mysterious mountain slap in the city centre. Nothing quite beats seeing the clouds roll off the top - its like something out of a Hollywood movie, but real.

What are your top five things to do or see in Cape Town?
Simon: 1. Get on top of Table Mountain, 2. Go wine tasting, 3. Visit Robben Island, 4. Join the drumming circle at the Drum Cafe, 5. Attend the Sunday afternoon concerts in the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

What do you love about Cape Town?
Simon: Cape Town is an incredibly relaxed and beautiful place with a fascinating history and dynamic present and future. I love the friendliness and hopefulness of the people and the music and colour of the city.

What was the highlight of your travels when researching this book?
Paragliding off the top of Lions Head - awesome views of Table Mountain, Twelve Apostles and the coast, and a massive thrill factor.

What were the refinancing moments, people, places you encountered along the road?
Vicky Ntozini is an inspiring person - she's one of the first people to run a B&B in the Cape Town township of Khayelitsha. On my last trip, it was a pleasure to meet Pieter-Dirk Uys, South Africa's own Barry Humphries, famous for his Evita Bezuidenhout character and for fearlessly campaigning to raise awareness of the need to treat and prevent AIDS. Chatting to the artists behind the fantastic Monkeybiz project making and selling beautiful, colourful beaded dolls, tapestries and other goods.

For more on the city and the new guide, see Lonely Planet website at www.lonelyplanet.com.au

BOOK REVIEWS:
Eyewitness Travel Guide: South Africa (from the Dorling Kindersely Eyewitness Travel series, 408 pages, including 1,000 colour photographs, maps & illustrations) offers a 'coffee table' feast of pics, maps and diagrams. If you can manage to extract yourself from the chapters on Capetown (busting with culture, gardens and dizzy views off Table Mountain), you can take a tipple in the winelands and head up the Garden Route to Grahamstown, before seeing the coast and cultural melting pot of Durban. Then it's onto Joburg, Sun City, national parks, the Kalahari and Orange County region. After these glossy 'destination' pages, are chapters on hotels, restaurants and transport suggestions. These are clearly more suited to the upmarket traveller or package tourist than the independent traveller... showing a picture of South Africa coated with a layer of vaneer - free of crime, dusty streets and township culture. But there's no denying it offers a nice visual journey through some key destinations.

Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland (976 pages, including 73 maps, colour photo section and colour wildlife guide) is a great travel handbook, providing extensive coverage of destinations around the country, as well as the usual practical advice on where to stay, eat and drink for all budgets. Packed with text, it is not a coffee table book, but the ideal travel companion - with detailed information on everything from Soweto to Sun City. In addition to comprehensive overviews on history, culture and geography, it will show you where to get a bus from Voortrekker Street or where you can buy a great masala pineapple in Durban - the very day-to-day stuff that sustains you when you're out on the road. There's enough detail to make you feel an independent traveller - but also not out on a limb. This is not to say it's just for the budget traveller. It's equally useful for those renting cars, staying in B&Bs, etc The beauty of these guides is the beauty of choice.